Taking A Chance…
There was hesitation, certainly.
And a mild trepidation as the long walk
Was undertaken from dunes to the retreating
Tide, a pale turquoise tantrum
Of thrashing, roaring ire.
And a cormorant flew high over my head.
There was mental strife, plainly.
And a stubborn resignation not to baulk
At the decision taken to surf the retreating
Tide, a wild windy thrum
Of a gushing, ripping mire.
And an oystercatcher flew low over my head.
Unsure about the pain, or the consequences,
I stepped into the ocean’s tossing exuberance,
Stopped, turned and awaited a sequence
Of three adjoining breakers with indifference…
My bodyboard was taken, hauled and hurried
Forth, as I clung on and felt myself scurried,
Rattled and bounced on by an energy unseen
Towards restless shallows with a thrill serene…
There was no physical pain. Inexplicable.
I stood then, as a dark cloud became visible
Which soon pelted my head, face and frowning eyes
With cascading rain, like pins, sharp and precise…
There was joy though, certainly…
The mild concern and doubtful talk
Had been dissipated, in a fleeting
Ride and anxiety was overcome
Courtesy of a rushing, disarming desire.
And another oystercatcher flew close above my head…
Pete Ray
10th November 2022
9th November 2022 and despite the pain from a hip soon to be replaced and an arthritic knee, I guess I knew I had to try to bodyboard at Mawgan Porth.
The long walk on the beach to reach the outgoing tide was a burden to bear, when my mind could easily have been changed.
Stubbornly though, I pushed on and was rewarded with several fine rides, which caused me some stress and pain but it was so worth it.
The improvement in my mental state has been palpable…
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