Return To The Surf…
The long trudge to the low tide.
The lack of wind. The hope of a ride.
The surprising warmth of a March sun.
The intention, the stolid ploughing on.
The reaching of the turquoise ocean.
The wild, unruly, tousling motion.
The chill of water inside the boots,
The inevitable gulls squabbling fussy disputes.
The black gloves tight upon the wrists.
The distant Newquay, a wraith in mists.
The stepping out over shallows restless.
The aching joints freed. The mindset feckless.
The sudden heap of waves adjoining.
The wait, the turn, the thrust, the leaning.
The speed, the glide, the continued push.
The next wave adding to a joyous rush.
The longest ride I ever recall making.
The consummate pleasure overriding the aching.
The customary oystercatcher low over my head flew.
The greeting tenuous and silent but somehow true…
Pete Ray
15th March 2022 (The Tides of March?)
The first outing to bodyboard at Mawgan Porth, 14th March 2022.
Unsure about the joints, or the thigh injury but I managed.
Loved it…
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