Mawgan Porth: Totally Body-boarded…
The ankles felt the chill first,
Then my bare thighs,
As the turning tide shoved at me,
Slaking its bullying thirst
And thrashing itself into a threatening rise,
Freezing each reddened knee…
After a while one breaking wave
Stretched to a peak,
Followed by another, hurling higher;
The enormity of the pair was grave
But in its sanctity, there was a rush to seek
And it launched me with ferocity dire…
It enveloped me,
It eschewed me,
It pummelled my board;
It empowered me,
It bucked me,
It hollered and roared;
It sped me,
It rattled me,
It soon flung off one shoe;
It raced me,
It embraced me,
It sure drenched me through…
April 20th 2018
Mawgan Porth, no-one in the sea bar me.
One double-wave approached, the second riser higher than the first and I was fortunate to catch it.
It threw me about, I held onto my board, the beast ripped the velcro fastening from my right sea-shoe and tore it off, before catching up with smaller waves, lifting me over them and chucking me on until I was left in the shallows, soaked, covered in sand but exhilarated.
My shoe was floating some way off.
I retrieved it and went riding again…